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The use of CBD has sparked excitement in the skincare industry since numerous studies have shown that it has anti-inflammatory benefits when applied onto skin. Here, we analyze how CBD Oil Balance can be incorporated into a complete fluid-like water-based formulation. Before moving forward, let’s recap what exactly is the new active CBD Oil Balance. CBD Oil Balance consists of the encapsulation of pure CBD in the e-capsule technology from Infinitec and offers several advantages over the free CBD, thus unlocking the therapeutic effects of CBD in oily skin and furthermore, the scalp. E-capsules consist of a mixture of solid and liquid oils, which lead to a nanostructured lipidic carrier, with a solid shell and a liquid core. One of the main benefits of encapsulation, in a formulator’s view, is that it converts the pure CBD (which is a lipophilic active) to an active more dispersible and stable in water. This is possible because of lecithin which is at the surface of the nano-structured e-capsule, making it easier to incorporate into different cosmetic forms, especially water-based.
For this new launch we have developed two concept product lines, one targeted for oily skin and another specifically for oily, and sensitive scalp. Each product was designed keeping in mind the conditions and formulated with natural, non-irritating ingredients. You can find the composition of each formula on our website.
During the process of formulating these formulations, we demonstrate how CBD Oil Balance can be incorporated in a very fluid aqueous system, such as Foaming Facial Cleanser. Given that its core shell is in fact lipidic it does not give us complete solubility in water and when dispersing the active in a complete fluid (water-like) aqueous system that over time we encountered separation. To mitigate this issue, CBD Oil Balance needed the help of a solubilizer in order to maintain its stability in the very fluid aqueous system.
In the laboratory, we selected three different solubilizing agents in the market to test out (Galesol by Gale&Cosm, Symbiosolve Clear Plus by Evonik and Galesol Plus by Gale&Cosm) and evaluated at different ratios with CBD Oil Balance (1:4, 1:3, 1:2 and 1:1). This is to see which combination and ratio was the most effective. Polysorbate 20, which is a very common solubilizer in the cosmetic industry was ruled out as we wanted to stick to a more natural approach, and many formulators and brands avoid the use of it. The tests were carried out in a total volume of 50 ml. For each combination, the procedure was always the same:
1. Weigh the corresponding amount of water and stir with IKA RW20 and propeller blade at 300 rpm.
2. Add the corresponding amount of CBD Oil Balance and increase stirring at 400 rpm until completely dispersed.
3. Add the solubilising agent and mix until it is uniform.
4. Remove the stirrer and leave the containers to rest. Observe each mixture at different times (t=0h; t=24h; t=48h).
The results were as follows:
• Ratio 1:4 (CBD Oil Balance to solubiliser)
The results showed that CBD Oil Balance is readily dispersed in water with each of the solubilizing agents at ratios 1:4 and remained stable at the study times.
• Ratio 1:3
The results were similar to that of 1:4 ratio with each solubiliser.
• Ratio 1:2
The results showed good dispersibility and stability at zero time. However, at 24 hours the systems that remained stable were those containing Galesol and Galesol Plus. At 48 hours both systems began to show separation with a fine mist layer occurring on top. We also noticed with Galesol Plus the medium appeared more transparent than that containing Galesol.
• Ratio 1:1
The results showed good dispersibility and stability at zero time, similar to the 1:2 ratio. However, no tests remained stable after 24 hours.
Typically, when choosing the best solubiliser for your system, the one that maintains stable for a longer period at the lowest possible concentration is preferred. After analyzing the results, we concluded that the most optimum solubilising agent for CBD Oil Balance in our case, for the Foaming Facial Cleanser, is Galesol Plus. Not only does it maintain the aqueous phase stable over a longer period, but it also brings greater transparency to the formula. In this case it is recommended to add Galesol Plus at a ratio 1:3. Finally, it would be beneficial to add a stabilizing agent at a low concentration (for e.g., xanthan gum at 0.15%) to provide further stability to any fluid-like aqueous formulation.


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