CBD has become increasingly popular as an ingredient used in skincare products, especially those caring for sensitive and acne-prone skin. Some of the most frequent applications include moisturization, improving skin barrier, anti-inflammatory, oil control and skin soothing. Since the new launch of CBD Oil Balance, many of you might be wondering how to use and formulate with this encapsulated form of CBD and how does it differ from free CBD. The CBD that is encapsulated comes from the purest form of CBD, also known as CBD isolate or cannabidiol. This form is known to be oil-soluble and typically added to the oily phase of your cosmetic formulation. In the case of CBD Oil Balance, it is encapsulated in a nano-structured lipid carrier and offers a higher water affinity and stability than pure CBD, and thus can provide a gateway and easy handling for water-based formulations, both for the oily skin and the scalp area.
Some key points to consider when formulating with CBD Oil Balance. Due to its lipidic capsule, it appears as a dense, off white suspension. When dispersed readily in water, it gives a white translucency. The dosage use recommended to any cosmetic formulation is up to 2%. The recommended pH to work with is between acid and neutral (4.2 – 7.5). Optimally, between 4.5 – 6.5 if possible. The product is quite sensitive to low pH and pH higher than 8 can induce CBD oxidation therefore it is crucial to keep the pH stable within that range. One of the advantages of CBD Oil Balance is that it can be processed cold, no need to heat the water phase to disperse it. If heat is required, it can tolerate up to 65ºC with limited time. Try to limit the exposure time to heat as the capsules tend to slowly degrade if left longer than 1 hour. The product can be considered microbiome-friendly and act as a natural approach in cosmetic formulations. We recommend using more natural and milder surfactants when formulating with CBD Oil Balance. The product shows good compatibility with most surfactants, biocides and chelates. However, it is best to avoid strong anionic charge surfactants with this product as some show incompatibility. Also, the use of cationic surfactants and electrolytes should be avoided. Its mode of incorporation is quite simple, either you add it towards the end of the formulation process, provided the pH is within range, or you add it into the water phase of the cosmetic formulation and continue with the rest of the ingredients. The addition of a solubilizer when working with a complete very fluid aqueous formulation is advisable as this will help with the formulation’s stability. If you are working with serums or low viscosity aqueous formulations, a stabilizing agent (e.g., Xanthan Gum) is useful to add. The application areas include but not limited to, oil-free creams, lotions, foaming cleansers, gel cleansers, aqueous serums, shampoos, aqueous treatment products, facial gels etc. The product can also be included in a wide range of solid formulations, from solid shampoos to solid serums. The only thing to keep in mind when formulating and using CBD Oil Balance for this application is the temperature. Make sure to add it to the formulation at the congealing point (55ºC – 60ºC) so that the product is stable and uniform.
CBD Oil Balance serves as a multifunctional active ingredient for most cosmetic applications, especially to those that require to be water-based only. In the Formulation Lab we have also developed some examples of aqueous based formulations: The Foaming Facial Cleanser, a clear foaming cleanser for oily skin using only mild surfactants; Oil Control Hydrator Gel, a lightweight and hydrating aqueous gel for oil control; Oily Skin Face toner, a water-based liquid toner to purify oily skin; Scalp and Hair Shampoo and Leave in Serum, both semi-transparent water-based formulations that are used for the scalp area and the hair.